Mountaineering
The Cuillin Ridge on the Isle of Skye
My chosen header photo for this webpage reveals my long-term favourite UK mountain range, the Cuillin Ridge on Scotland’s Isle of Skye.
I have climbed all of its individual summits many times, but I have traversed the entire ridge end-to-end in one day only once in each direction, since it was always difficult to find anyone else to accompany me on such a lengthy and time-consuming challenge, and the Cuillin Ridge is the only UK mountaineering range that I have been reluctant to solo. It has only one summit that is classed as reachable by walkers (as opposed to climbers), which is undoubtedly why it is the only summit with a trig point.The traverse also includes an unavoidable abseil.
On the Cuillin Ridge
How it all started
I took up an interest in the mountains while still at school in Leicester. I joined the local climbing club and spent several weekends with them in the UK’s mountain ranges. They taught me rock climbing and it was on one of their weekends that I led my first 'Very Severe' rock-climb, called 'A Eliminate', on Dow Crag, Coniston.
During the long break between school and university in 1962 I took part in a two-week training course in alpinism in the Ötztal Alps with instruction provided by Austrian Guides. They taught us step-cutting, up, down and across slopes, all forms and methods of using crampons, crevasse self-rescue using prusik loops, assisted crevasse rescue by those on the surface, moving together roped up, belaying techniques on rock, snow and ice. together with avalanche and crevasse awareness. The summits traversed included Wildspitze (see photo below), Weisskugel, Similaun, Hochvernagspitze, Hinterer Brochkogel, Vorderer Brochkogel, Hintere Schwarze, Grosser Ramolkogel, and Scalfkogel. This list includes 7 of the 10 highest summits in Austria. It might amuse you to learn that it predated the introduction of climbing helmets and climbing harnesses. I still have the ice-axe I bought for the occcasion, an Aschenbrenner Fuhrerpickel. (The boots I bought for that occasion were Hawkins Olympics, and were the most uncomfrtable boots I have ever worn.)
Wildspitze
The following summer in 1963 I tool part in a two week continuation training couse in the Glockner area of the Austrian Alps, which picked up on what we had been taught the summer before and consolidated everything. The summits climbed included Grossglockner, (see photo below), Glocknerwand, Sonnblick, Hoffmanspitze and Grosses Weisbachhorn, which added 2 more to my tally of Austria’s 10 highest summits, leaving only the Grossvenediger still to climb (49 years later, leading an unguided AAC(UK) party).
Grossglockner
[In both of these two expeditions to the Alps, flying out and back was not an available option, the only way was by overnight sleeper train. On both occasions and on both outbound and return journeys, once we were on the continent, we changed engines twice, using diesel locomotives for the first and the third sections, and steam locomotives for the middle section through Germany. How many of you, dear readers, have ever been on a package holiday to the Alps travelling by steam train?]
That marked the last time I ever climbed anything with a guide.
Acting as a mountaineering club instructor:
- In January 1965 in snow-covered Snowdonia I led parties up the North Face of Grib Goch, up Nameless Cwm onto the Glyders, up Tryfan via its North Ridge, and finally up Snowdon via Central Trinity Gully.
- In April 1965 in snow-covered Scotland, I led parties up Central Gully on Bidean nam Bian (in bad weather), which was my first ascent of anything in the Scottish Highlands, followed by Carn Mor Dearg to Ben Nevis, the Aonach Eagach ridge and finally Aonach Beag and Aonach Mor.
- In August 1965 in the Pennine Alps, I led parties up Mont Collon via its West Ridge, the L'Eveque Traverse, the Petit Dents de Veisivi Traverse, and finally the Zinal Rothorn Traverse, up the Rothorngrat and down the Bosses Arete, my first 4,000m peak.
And so it went on thereafter, year by year.
The British Isles
I have reached the summits of all of the 3,000 ft mountains in the British Isles: England, Wales, Scotland and Ireland. The full account for those hills in Scotland (the 511 Munros and Tops) may be found here .
My favourite one-day ramble in Wales in my younger years was definitely traversing the 14 Welsh Three Thousands, invariably from Pen-y-Pass to the Aber roadhead, completing it on 19 occasions, but I am now well past repeating it.
My favourite one-day ramble in England was undoubtedly the Yorkshire Three Peaks: Whernside, Ingleborough and Pen-y-Ghent, since I have completed the circuit of all three on no fewer than 40 occasions, spread over several decades. I was a long-term member of a caving club with a hut near the route, so if I had spare time with good weather, I would often seize the opportunity and drive up there to solo them. Having done it so often, I consider myself an expert at choosing the optimum route. Traditionally, the start and end point is Horton-in-Ribblesdale, but there are seven good reasons for choosing the Ribblehead road junction, instead, and proceding anti-clockwise.
My favourite one-day ramble in Scotland was unquestionably the Cuillin Ridge, completed end to end in one day on just two occasions, (but never again).
I was one of a party of three that in just one week in June 2016 completed all the eight 3000' peaks in England, then the eleven 4000' peaks in Scotland and finally the fifteen 3000' peaks in Wales while squeezing in the ‘3 Peaks Challenge’ within 24 hrs in the middle, without ever exceeding road speed limits, a total of 36 peaks. It was most certainly my 'Mountaineering Swan-Song'. For a full account, please read this published Article
The European Alps
I have climbed all of the 10 highest mountains in Austria and very many mountains in the French, Italian and Swiss Alps, all of them except for 9 of Austria's highest 10 in unguided parties, nearly always as party leader. The highest in the Alps was obviously Mont Blanc, over which I led an unguided party on the 31st of July 1980.
Mont Blanc
The Himalayas
In 1998, my wife Mary joined me for a long trek through the Himalayas, but no mountains were climbed.
The Andes
In 1992 in Bolivia as a member of a Royal Air Force Mountaineering Association (RAFMA) party, I relegated Mont Blanc to its current position as merely my 13th highest summit.
A key attraction of the Bolivian Andes is that there is (almost always) no wind and no clouds, therefore no weather!
Before you consider following in our footsteps, please reflect on the truism that mountain rescue insurance only pays for it, it does not ‘provide’ it, and it doesn’t exist in the Bolivian Andes. This was why one of the mountaineers in our party was an RAF Doctor carrying a comprehensive medical kit, and why we carried a light-weight stretcher in the party, (which was fortunately never needed). Furthermore, several of us had previously been RAF Mountain Rescue Team members.
You also need to understand that the principal goal of the military in time of peace is to prepare for war. This necessitates encouraging military personnel to plan and take part in challenging high-risk activities to give them the necessary mind-set and experience, and why such activities are fully financed by HMG with none of the time taken coming out of ones annual holiday entitlement, since it is regarded as military training.
All dialogue with the Bolivians must be in Spanish, since no-one in the South American continent seems to have any reason to learn English, presumably becasue few if any Brits visit it. The British Embassy in La Paz set up a meeting for us at their Embassy with a senior official of Club Andino Boliviano (CAB) and one of the Embassy’s interpreters. That enabled us to set up transport to the mountains and the provision of porters and llamas to transport our kit between road-heads and base camps. Civilian parties must include a competent Spanish linguist, but they would be unlikely to enjoy as much 'pull' with the CAB as was managed by the Britosh Embassy.
Here is an account of this expedition, published by RAFMA, and here is my Personal Record ,
My Overseas Mountaineering Log (of every mountain climbed outside the British Isles)
| DATE | LOCATION | ROLE | THE SUMMITS REACHED |
| Aug 62 2 Weeks | Austria | trainee | Wildspitze, Weisskugel, Similaun, Hochvernagspitze Hinterer Brochkogel, Vorderer Brochkogel, Hinterer Schwarze, Grosser Ramolkogel, Scalfkogel |
| Aug 63 2 Weeks | Austria | trainee | Grossglockner, Glocknerwand, Sonnblick, Hoffmanspitze Grosser Weisbachhorn |
| 1 Aug 65 | Pennine Alps | leader | Mont Collon |
| 3 Aug 65 | Pennine Alps | leader | L'Eveque Traverse |
| 6 Aug 65 | Pennine Alps | leader | Petit Dents de Veisivi Traverse |
| 10 Aug 65 | Pennine Alps | leader | Zinal Rothorn Traverse |
| 16 Aug 72 | Pennine Alps | leader | Le Besso and Mont Blanc de Moming |
| 9 Aug 78 | Bernina | leader | Glushant |
| 11 Aug 78 | Bernina | leader | Piz Morteratsch |
| 12 Aug 78 | Bernina | leader | Piz Bernina |
| 15 Aug 78 | Bernina | leader | Munt Pers |
| 16 Aug 78 | Bernina | leader | Piz Palu and Bellavista |
| 24 Jul 80 | Pennine Alps | leader | Pyramid do Tacul |
| 28 Jul 80 | Pennine Alps | leader | Dent du Geant |
| 31 Jul 80 | Pennine Alps | leader | Mont Blanc via Dome de Gouter |
| 27 Jul 81 | Pennine Alps | leading through | Tour Ronde, North Face |
| 20 Jul 82 | Dauphine | leading through | Aiguille Dibona, voie Boell |
| 21 Jul 82 | Dauphine | co-leader | Tete du Rouget |
| 23 Jul 82 | Dauphine | co-leader | Pic Nord des Cavales, Arete Sud |
| 24 Jul 82 | Dauphine | co-leader | Tete Nord du Replat, Tete Sud du Replat |
| 27 Jul 82 | Dauphine | co-leader | Les Bans, Pic Orentasl, Arete Oriental |
| 15 Aug 83 | Zermatt | leader | Trifthorn |
| 16 Aug 83 | Zermatt | leader | Zinal Rothorn |
| 19 Aug 83 | Zermatt | leader | Allalinhorn |
| 20 Aug 83 | Zermatt | leader | Alphubel |
| 23 Aug 83 | Zermatt | leader | Dufourspitze |
| 20 May 92 | Bolivian Andes | equal pair | Cerro Wilja Llojeta, 5244m |
| 21 May 92 | Bolivian Andes | equal pair | Cerro Jankho Huvo, 5512m |
| 23 May 92 | Bolivian Andes | equal pair | Cerro Nigruni, 5468m |
| 24 May 92 | Bolivian Andes | equal pair | Cerro Culin Thojo, 5268m |
| 25 May 92 | Bolivian Andes | equal pair | Cerro Jiskha Pata, 5508m, & Cerro Jachcha Pata, 5424m |
| 27 May 92 | Bolivian Andes | equal pair | Cerro Mullu Apacula, 5366m |
| 4 Jun 92 | Bolivian Andes | equal pair | Viluyo Jankhouma, 5540m |
| 7 Jun 92 | Bolivian Andes | equal pair | Jankopiti, 5875m |
| 11 Jun 92 | Bolivian Andes | solo | Jankhouma, 6427m, my first 21,000 footer |
| 20 Jun 92 | Bolivian Andes | equal pair | Illimani, 6440m, my second 21,000 footer |
| 2 Sep 92 | Dolomites | rock climbing | 1st Sella Tower, South Face, (Trenka) |
| 3 Sep 92 | Dolomites | rock climbing | 3rd Sella Tower, West Face, (Jahn) |
| 4 Sep 92 | Dolomites | rock climbing | Funf Fingerspitze, Punta Della Cinque Dita |
| 6 Sep 92 | Dolomites | rock climbing | Pic di Ciavezes, Old Michelezzi Route |
My Klettersteig (Via Ferrata) Log
| DATE | LOCATION | ROLE | KLETTERSTEIGS (VIA FERRATAS) |
| 4 Aug 85 | Dolomites | co-leader | Brigantia Tridentina, Pisciadu |
| 5 Aug 85 | Dolomites | co-leader | Possnecker, Piz Sella, Grabo, Miaro Boqua and Zwischenkofel |
| 7 Aug 85 | Dolomites | co-leader | Sas Songher |
| 8 Aug 85 | Dolomites | co-leader | Plattkofel |
| 9 Aug 85 | Dolomites | co-leader | Ill Collac |
| 10 Aug 85 | Dolomites | co-leader | Marmalada West Ridge |
| 11 Aug 85 | Dolomites | co-leader | St Martino di Castrozza |
| 12 Aug 85 | Dolomites | co-leader | Bolver Lugli, Cima Della Vezzana |
| 15 Aug 85 | Dolomites | co-leader | Vajolet Tower, Torre Winkler |
| 5 Aug 86 | Dolomites | leader | VF della Alleghesi |
| 6 Aug 86 | Dolomites | leader | VF Attilio Tissi |
| 7 Aug 86 | Dolomites | leader | VF Sentiero Bernini |
| 10 Aug 86 | Dolomites | leader | Via della Bochette |
| 12 Aug 86 | Dolomites | leader | Possnecker |
| 15 Aug 86 | Dolomites | leader | VF Osker-Schuster |
| 29 Jun 04 | Bavaria | trainee | Hindelanger Klettersteig |
| 30 Jun 04 | Austria | party member | Seeben Klettersteig |
| 1 Jul 04 | Austria | leader | Leiner Klettersteig |
| 1 Jul 04 | Austria | party member | Rheinhart Schistel Klettersteig |
| 2 Jul 04 | Austria | party member | Crazy Eddie Klettersteig |
| 3 Jul 04 | Austria | solo | Mindelheim & Northern Schafalpenkopf Klettersteig |
| 22 Jul 07 | Dolomites | leader | VF Oscar Schuster (Sasso Piatto) |
| 23 Jul 07 | Dolomites | leader | VF Brigata Tridentina (Kl Piscidu) |
| 24 Jul 07 | Dolomites | leader | VF Del Finanzieri (Colac) |
| 25 Jul 07 | Dolomites | leader | VF Delle Mesules (Kl Possnecker) |
| 26 Jul 07 | Dolomites | leader | VF Marmalada West Ridge, descending glacier |
| 27 Jul 07 | Dolomites | leader | VF Cesare Piazzetta (Piz Boe) |
| 28 Jul 07 | Dolomites | leader | VF Della Trincee (La Mesola) |
| 29 Jul 07 | Dolomites | leader | VF Ettore Bovero (Col Rosa) |
| 30 Jul 07 | Dolomites | leader | VF Michielli Strobel (Punta Fiammes) |
| 31 Jul 07 | Dolomites | leader | VF Merlone (Cima del Cadin de NE) |
| 1 Aug 07 | Dolomites | leader | VF Giovanni Lipella (Tofana de Rozes) |
| 2 Aug 07 | Dolomites | leader | VF Tomaselli (Punta Sud) |
| 7 Aug 16 | Dolomites | party member | VF Oscar Schuster (Sasso Piatto |
| 8 Aug 16 | Dolomites | party member | VF Brigatta Tridentina (KL Pisciado) |
| 9 Aug 16 | Dolomites | party member | VF del Finanzieri (Colac) |
| 10 Aug 16 | Dolomites | party member | VF delle Mesules (KL Possnecker) |
| 17 Aug 16 | Dolomites | party member | VF Maria e Andrea Ferrara a Ra Bujela |
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